The upper is the part of the shoe that covers the toes, the top, sides and back of the heel. Uppers are normally made from several parts of material, usually leather or suede, which are stitched together by expert craftspeople. We do have some patterns where the upper is made from one piece of leather, this style is commonly known as a whole cut.
Parts of the Upper External:
Vamp
The section of the upper that covers the front of the foot as far as the back as the join to the quarter.
Toe cap
Shoes and boots may have a toe cap in the front upper of the shoe. Toe caps can take various forms and can be both decorative and protective. Toe caps help add strength to the upper front of the shoe, an area that receives a lot of stress and wear from use. Our styles Kensington, Belgrave and Regent all have toe caps.
Quarter
The rear and sides of the upper that covers the heel which are behind the vamp. The heel section of the quarter is often strengthened with a stiffener, which helps support the rear of the foot. Some shoe designs use a continuous piece of leather for the vamp and quarter (wholecut).
Eyestay
Also known as the lace stay, this is the section of a shoe where the eyelets are placed and the laces threaded through.
Eyelet
The holes through which laces are passed, these are often reinforced with metal or plastic. Lace-up shoes can have as little as one eyelet, lace-up boots can have seven or more.
Counter
A piece of material forming the back of a shoe to give support and stiffen the material around the heel and help maintain the shape of the shoe. The counter helps strengthen the rear of the shoe.
Backstay
The area of a heel counter that runs vertically down its centre.
Topline
The top edge of the upper
Tongue
The part of the shoe that makes contact with the top of your foot. On a lace-up shoe, it resides underneath the eyestay and laces.
Kiltie
This is a fringe of leather, often with a tassel attached, which is situated on the top of a loafer. They are used sometimes in our Country shoe and boot styles, which historically would have helped to protect them from mud and grass.
Penny keeper
The name given to the thin strap of leather that goes over the vamp and tongue on a penny loafer, as seen on our James and Adam styles.
Tassel
A decorative fringed piece of leather hanging from the vamp, normally on a loafer such as the Elton.
Parts of the Upper Internal:
Lining: Most shoes include a lining on the inside of the shoe. These linings improve comfort, breathability and can help increase the lifespan of the shoe. All Tricker’s shoes that have linings, use top-quality lining leather which allows the foot to breathe more naturally.
Counter lining
The material used to line and protect the back part of the shoe – also known as the Counter. This may be a different material to the material used to line the vamp
Stiffener
This is often placed between the upper and lining materials of the counter, this is a lightweight, sturdy material that can be used to help maintain the shape of the counter, whilst offering support to the heel of the foot.
Tongue lining
The material used to line the tongue section of a shoe. This may be the same material as the vamp lining.
Tongue padding
The soft filling used between the lining and upper of the tongue to provide comfort to the top of the foot during wear.
Vamp Lining
The material used to line and protect the front part of the shoe – also known as the vamp. This may be a different material from the material used to line the counter. Toe Puff:
A lightweight reinforcement used inside the shoe, placed between the upper and lining materials, which gives the toe its shape and support. Similar in function to a toe cap.
